(House)
The house
Founded in Milan in 2012 by Luca Varenne. Forty tailors, three mills, three stores, two shows a year.
(Creative director)
“I design from the side. The silhouette in profile is the only one people really see.”
Luca Varenne trained as a tailor in Naples and as an architect in Milan. He still cuts the first pattern of every coat himself.
(Since 2012)
Six dates.
Founded
Luca Varenne opens a two-room atelier on Via Tortona.
First show
Twelve looks in a garage, eighty guests.
Biella
We start weaving our own cloth.
Paris
The second store, on rue Saint-Honoré.
Tokyo
Jingumae, our largest store.
SS27
Line of Sight, forty metres, one line.
Sketch
Every look starts as one line on a sheet of A3 — the silhouette from the side.
Cloth
We weave our own cloth in Biella and dye it to order, in runs of 300 metres.
Pattern
Paper patterns cut by hand, then a toile in calico, fitted on a real body three times.
Make
Seventy-two hours of hand work for a coat: shoulders, collar, buttonholes.
Show
Twenty-four looks, one line, eleven minutes. Then into the stores the next morning.